Turf Wars 2: The Homeowner Strikes Back

Take Your Lawn From:

FAIL!

To:

FABULOUS!

I know that many of you fight your lawns--I am no exception in this case. In fact, I'll bet that most of my neighbors wonder when there are going to be toilets full of flowers in front of my house.

Bridger Valley Lawn Care Basics:

You'll recall from the piece I did on trees; we have little or no soil, the soil we do have is very alkaline, there is occasional windiness, and our season is brief to say the least. These conditions present their own unique challenges, but they are not insurmountable. There are beautiful lawns all over the valley, and if you are willing to put the time and effort in, yours will be too. Here is your chronological checklist:

1. Late April early May: Time to fertilize and aerate.

You want a a spring fertilizer that is not too high in nitrogen preferably a 25-0-3 (I use IFA's brand), you also need to add Ironite. This combo along with the late spring snow/rain showers will green your lawn up rather quickly. A week or two after your initial fertilization, hit it again with an organic fertilizer like Milorganite and more Ironite. Milorganite is available at the Evanston Nursery, or just about any other reputable garden center (like J&J in Salt Lake). Continue this regiment until it starts to warm up for good, usually around the second week of June.

• I'm a huge fan of IFA's products, and their co-op business model is commendable: http://ifa-coop.com/country-stores Scott's is a national brand, there is nothing wrong with it, and you can get it at Benedict's. If you are already traveling to Utah for other things though, IFA Country Stores are a lot of fun to shop at (even for kids), and the products are specially designed for our region.

Grow Your Own Tip: 25-0-3 is the N-P-K or Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potasium content of a fertilizer. As a Wyomingite, you will be most interested in the Nitrogen content of fertilizer. Phosphorous is naturally occurring in most of our soils and adding a lot more is not really a good idea. Potassium is not a huge consideration either. Ironite, as the name suggests is Iron, and it helps to counteract the alkalinity of your soil. It will green your lawn without burning it, but it can discolor any concrete it comes in contact with.

2. Late April early May: Weed and pest management.

Unless you have a huge expanse of lawn with no trees, shrubs, perennials, or bulbs; I strongly urge you not to buy fertilizer that is a weed control also. All of the afore mentioned plants can be seriously harmed or killed by using it. Young trees especially suffer, and it will kill more tender plants. If you absolutely must use it because you are being held at gunpoint, stay well away of the drip lines of your trees. The drip line is from the trunk to the furthest branches of your trees.

My preference is spraying for weeds with 2-4D commonly called Weed-B-Gone. This targets anything that is a dicot (plants with two leaves at germination opposed to a monocot which only has one), which in Plain English means that it won't kill your grass. Generally this is an early morning activity, you want to do it when there is little to no wind and rain/snow is not expected for 2 or more hours. If you have a bounteous dandelion harvest like I do, you will want to do this 1-2 times per week. That is if you aren't going to be eating the dandelions--they're quite tasty, but that's for another day.

Pest management is a little bit easier, in that you can spread it all over the lawn without worrying about hurting other plants. First identify if you need a pesticide, it's not a good thing to kill every bug living in your yard. Next, try to find a pesticide that targets the specific pest you are trying to kill; really, you don't want to wipe out everything. Finally, apply it as directed by the manufacturer. If you have questions about this ask, and send me pictures. Or better yet go to the UW Cooperative Extension Service website and get the full scoop. http://www.uwyo.edu/ces/

Mid May through End of July: Discontinue the use of Ironite on your lawn, it needs Nitrogen now, but no so much it burns your lawn. 28-0-0 would be best if you can find it; but if you can't, just get close that is good enough. Continue to alternate every two weeks between the 28-0-0 and Milorganite.

August through the first week of October: Step up your nitrogen a little and add some Potassium to strengthen your lawn for winter, try a 32-0-12. Continue two week rotation with Milorganite.

After the first week of October: call it a year for the ol' lawn. Continuing to fertilize at this point will encourage new growth and can harm your lawn as temperatures drop.

Watering and Mowing, A Vicious Cycle

Improper watering of lawns is a huge problem. I won't get on my water conservation soap box today, so here are a few tips to keep your lawn green and your water usage responsible.

1. Take a shovel and dig up a small piece of your turf. You are inspecting the the root system. What you are looking for is yellowish-white, healthy looking roots that go down 7-12 inches. If yours are much shorter than this, you are watering too often and not long enough.

Grow Your Own Tip: Soil that is easily made into a ball and wants to clump together is usually clay based. Soil that is crumbly and will only hold together if wet is usually sand based. If you have something happily in between, consider yourself lucky because you have a nice loamy soil that will retain moisture well and get plenty of oxygen to your plants roots.

2. Determine how long you need to water. If you happen to have sandy or loamy soil, 15-20 minutes of watering is usually sufficient. If you have a clay soil it could be anywhere from 30-45 minutes. When you dig up your grass you should be able to determine your soil type. Step two of this process is to take a long metal instrument, like a really long screw driver, and stick it in your lawn as far as it will go and then pull it out. Ideally, it should be muddy for around 10-12 inches. Less than that means you need to water longer; more, you should cut back. Use 5 minute increments to adjust your watering length. This tool and measurement will be very important to you, so keep it handy.

3. Determine how often you need to water. Get out your lawn watering measurement tool, and stick it in the ground when you think your lawn needs to be watered. If it comes out moist or muddy, your lawn needs to wait another day. If it is harder to push in or comes out a little on the dry side, it's time to water. If it won't go in at all, perhaps you should consider concrete or a rock garden :) Most people only need to be watering 2-3 times per week, and during the hottest part of summer 3-5. Most people are watering every other day no matter what. This creates lawns that have poor root systems, which means they go brown quicker during a drought and they are using way more than their fair share of water.

4. Cutting your grass. Believe it or not, letting it grow a little bit longer is ideal. Depending on the type of grass you have planted 2-5 inches is perfect. Longer grass will stay greener longer, retain moisture better, and be more comfortable to walk on bare foot.  Not to mention it is more resistant to doggy damage.  If you have a healthy lawn you are going to be mowing quite often. Get yourself a nice mower that is easy to use. If you are really ambitious get a push mower and get your cardio in with your lawn mowing. If neither of those appeal to you, there are lawn cutting services available in The Valley. I prefer to cut my own, but then again, my lawn is smaller than most people's houses.

Some closing thoughts on lawn care:

• If you are going to go to the trouble to have a lawn in your yard, keep it nice. Everybody has "treasures" that build up over time, try to keep them respectable and neighbor friendly. Unless you live out of town by yourself, miles from others--then let your freak flag fly.
• DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT feed your lawn clippings to horses. It can clog up in their stomachs and kill them, and it's a very long, very painful way for them to die. I've seen a horse die of colic, and it was horrifying. The best thing to do is get a good mulching mower that cuts the clippings into very small pieces that can be left on the lawn. This creates organic matter that helps your lawn to grow better. However, I know that most people that have a lawn are really into how it looks and are going to collect the clippings. If you can, start a compost pile with them. Compost is organic gold.

The Container Gardening Workshop will be held Wednesday May 4th, in the Mountain View Library from 6pm until 7:30pm.  There will be garden fresh goodies and snacks, and I will be giving away several prizes.  I'm not selling anything, this is purely for fun and to share information.  So grab a friend and come.

Also, I know there are more than 8 people following this blog.  Make sure you are getting counted, and sent updates by entering your email address in the top part of the page and hitting enter.  I will be giving away a pair of Atlas Gardening Gloves to the 20th follower.  Spread the word and tell your friends, and as always, please send in your questions and stories.  Until next week, have fun gardening :)

The Short List--Are You Ready For Spring?

(In this picture, Ellis and Emma Walker exploring at the Walker Ranch.  It's one of my favorites, and I've named it Wyoming Summer.  It always reminds me of summers I spent at my Grandparent's House)

Everybody says they are ready for spring to be here, but I'm going to take a wild guess and say it's mostly talk.  Fortunately, our pre-spring thaw has only just begun you still have time to get it all together.  That way when spring flies by you in an instant, and summer is here, you are ready to go enjoy it.  Today I've got a check list for you, if you have any questions about items on the list, please let me know and I will go over them in more detail.

Also, I will be doing a container planting workshop and party at the Mountain View Library the first week of May.  I'm not selling anything, it's purely for fun and it will be informational too.  I will be giving away several prizes, and there will garden fresh goodies and snacks.  This will be a great event to bring a friend to.  I will be demonstrating Spaghetti Sauce in a Pot, Confetti Containers, and Thriller Spillers.  I go way beyond Petunias, and show you how to have a stylish and functional container garden.  If you've ever wondered how to beat our climate and growing conditions, this class if for you.

And Now, The List:

1.  Do you know where all your garden tools are?
2.  Is your lawn mower and other yard equipment tuned-up and ready to go?
3.  Have you got Ironite, Milorganite, a balanced spring fertilizer, and Weed Spray (24-D) ready for your lawn? (more on this Thursday in Turf Wars II)
4.  Are your beds cleaned from last year and mulched for this year?
5.  Have you made an appointment for your lawn to be aerated?
6.  Have you checked your irrigation system for missing or broken sprinkler heads, and made sure all your hoses are in good repair?
7.  Have you made a check list of the projects you need/want to get done in your yard this year?
8.  Do you know what you are planting in your garden, and do you know when you need to start seeds or purchase plants?
9.  Are all your containers emptied out and cleaned for this year?
10.  Have you sprayed for Black Vine Weevils?  These are those nasty little black things that are eating your Lilac Bushes.  A lot of people think the late summer damage is due to grasshoppers, but it's not.  A simple application of Sevin in early spring can knock these little suckers back and help your Lilacs to thrive this year.
11.  Is your grill ready to go?  Make sure all your propane bottles are in good working order and filled.
12.  Have you got your sunblock and mosquito repellent ready to go?

A couple of tips:

1.  Many nurseries (especially in Utah) will hold plants for you.  Most require that you pay for them in advance.  You get a much better selection before Mother's Day, and that way you can guarantee that you get the plants you want.  I like to go with a dark purple, red, and orange/yellow color scheme, and it can be hard to find the plants I want, so I plan and buy early.

2.  Your yard doesn't have to be perfect to be fun, so don't ever allow yourself to get discouraged.  Just keep it clean and do what you can.  I'll be sharing all kinds of gardening ideas in this blog, and I'm always here to help you find ways to make them your own.

Have a wonderful week, and please tell your friends and family about "Can You Dig It?"  As always, I'm here to answer your questions and love to hear your gardening stories, so send them in!

Turf Wars 1: A New Hope

This is the beginning of a three part series on lawns and landscaping.  Look for the next two Turf Wars articles on Thursdays.


Besides being beautiful, try to identify the unifying theme to these pictures:

Little to no grass?

They all have a lush, green, cool feel about them?

Maybe they are all high end landscaping jobs that cost a lot of money?

They are all owned by people who have no kids or pets?

Well, it is true that they have little to no grass; have a very lush, green, relaxing appearance; and seem to have a very expensive, exclusive look about them. The truth is, they are all examples of low water landscaping techniques and several are xeriscapes (zehra-scapes); which means they require no irrigation and survive on their regular annual rain/snowfall.

I'm not going to pretend for a second that I don't have an underlying agenda; I'm all about water conservation and sustainable living practices. I don't drive a Prius, I don't live a waste free lifestyle, and I don't wear soy-based underware. I do, however, feel a very strong connection to the area I grew up in, and I believe that it is our duty to live responsibly in it. One of the main things we can do to help keep it beautiful is to conserve and protect our water. As these pictures suggest, you can have a show stopping yard and not be a water waster. Many people seem to forget that we live in the middle of a huge desert.

So, lets dispel some myths about low water yards:

1. They have no lawn. This is not necessarily true. There are many types of turf grass that are water misers, and when planted and watered correctly they use very little water and provide a nice green lawn. Many low water landscapes have a nice lawn area, which is made even more lush and appealing by shade trees, shrubbery, dry creek beds, colorful perennials, and interesting hard scapes.

Grow Your Own Tip: Hard scapes are anything that requires no water or maintenance other than occasional sweeping. This would include your driveway, toy parking areas, or anything else covered by decking, stone or concrete. They are the most overlooked part of many yards, but they are integral to the design and function of your landscape.

2. They are filled with cactus and sagebrush. Also, a huge misconception. While it is true that low water landscapes rely heavily on native plants that are made for your climate, you do not have to rely on cactus and sagebrush. There are a lot of great plant choices that don't fall into either category.

3. They are expensive to put in.  Actually, low water landscapes cost about the same as putting in a lawn, but in the long run they are cheaper and easier to maintain due to less water use, and the fact that you don't have to mow them regularly.  When properly mulched there is little to no weeding involved, and your biggest responsibilities would be dead heading flowers in summer, and preparing your perennials for winter.

4.  Kids and pets have no where to play.  I admit, it's pretty fun to play a game of volleyball in the backyard, or to play in the sprinkler on soft grass, and a little bit of lawn is always nice.  Consider the possibilities of a yard with a little bit of lawn, and themed "garden rooms" to play in.  I have seen Huck Finn, Swiss Family Robinson, and Secret Garden themed yards.  Using your imagination and low water landscaping, you can really set your house apart from all the others in the neighborhood, and create fun safe places for small children to play.  Once the kids grow up, a little retro-fitting can make these "rooms" into wonderful outdoor entertaining areas.

Now, I want you to think of the unpleasant task of pet poo removal.  It stinks (in so many ways), and it is really hard on traditional lawns.  If you have pets that like to be outdoors, or you prefer to have your pets live outdoors, there are some really great options for them that don't involve cement or chain link kennels.  Here are some examples of pet friendly, low water landscapes:  http://www.sunset.com/garden/landscaping-design/dog-friendly-garden-ideas-00418000067590/.  When you go through these pictures you will notice that the grass looks pretty, but not golf course perfect.  That is because they are composed of low water turf, which is also more resistant to damage from dogs.  While it is true that cats are no picnic in a flower bed, there are many ways to deter them from using it as their outdoor litter box.  Furthermore, in a properly mulched landscape, poo removal is easy.  Or, you can just do what everybody else does and let them poop on somebody else's lawn ;)

Now, I'm not saying you need to rip out your yard and put in a xeriscape today.  I'm not trying to make you feel bad if you do have a lovely lawn.  I just want you to know there are other options out there.  Consider the following:

A traditional lawn uses 1/2 a gallon of water per square foot a day during the heat of summer.  That means that a 2000 sq. ft. lawn takes 1000 gallons in one watering.  Let's say you put in low water landscape beds in 650 sq. ft. of that (or reduce it by 1/3) and are able to use 1/4 of the water as before, or 1/8 of a gallon per sq. ft.  Your total water usage per watering is roughly 757 gallons.  You save 243 gallons in one watering.  If you practice good watering techniques you may water 3 or 4 times per week.  It really adds up.  Kind of makes a 7 gallon toilet flush seem insignificant huh?

Put Some Stink On It

Just another bucket of rotting garbage?  A salad gone horribly wrong?  No my friends, this is the beginnings of black gold.

Organic Matter.  Burn those two words into your brain, because this is the solution to your gardening woes.  Got clay soil?  Add organic matter.  Got sandy soil?  Add organic matter.  Got high soil pH (you do)? Add organic matter.  Really the question is "Got organic matter?"  It feeds plants, it loosens and aerates soil, it encourages the growth of beneficial micro-organisms, it provides a happy home for beneficial insects and worms, and once you begin gardening it is a renewable resource.  Beauty, eh?

My Great Grandfather, Keith Maxfield, had one of the most beautiful yards in the valley for many years.  His secret?  Organic matter.  Of course he was sitting on a gold mine, he was a dairy farmer.  After the huge piles of manure aged enough to be effective, he would add them to his flower beds and gardens along with the occasional carp.  He grew amazing flowers and vegetables (he also spent a lot of time weeding the, more on that latter).

Cindy Zampedri swears roses grow better in Ft. Bridger because they are planted on good Catholic Soil.  That may be partly true, but the real nugget of truth is that Ft. Bridger is marshy and has lots of organic matter already in it's soil and all of the trees planted there over the years create a nice wind break.  Either way, she's right.

So how can you get more organic matter into your soil?

Well, you can begin a compost regiment, once again the UW Extension has great information on this: ces.uwyo.edu/


I will be doing a piece this fall on Composting as well.


The quickest way to get going is to purchase organic matter.  My list of favorites:


1.  Soil Pep, sold in 30 lb. and 50 lb. bags.  It usually has a purple header on it that says "Soil Pep" and is readily available and Benedict's, Murdoch's, and just about every garden center.  It is affordable running from $2.50-$3.75 a bag depending on size (these are also last year's prices, everything is going up these days).  Fort the price, you really can't beat it.


2.  Black Gold Premium Fertilizer, sold at finer retailers in Utah.  This stuff is a little more expensive, but worth it for vegetables and prize flower beds.  There are many different varieties, and you can find one that is specially formulated for your purpose.


3.  Nutri-Mulch (i.e. turkey poo), if you want unsurpassed growth in your vegetable garden this year, spring for Nutri-Mulch and thank me latter.  This is a product of Utah, which means it wasn't trucked cross country to get to you; and in my book that is a plus.  It can be purchased at garden centers on the Wasatch Front, and at IFA.


Just a quick note on why I like things produced and sold close to home:  First of all, I don't buy into the whole end of the world, polar ice caps melting stuff.  However, sustainability and prudence are just common sense, and the heritage our forefathers passed down to us.  Buying things that are made locally or regionally is just good business practice, and saves huge amounts of effort and energy.  A smaller carbon foot print if you will.  I'm willing to pay more if I know where and who it came from.  So, if you know of people locally that are producing good gardening products, Please Share!


Grow Your Own Tip:  The Straight Poop
Cow s---, often packaged and sold as "Steer Manure" is maybe not the biggest bang for your buck.  It's not as balanced as regular compost, and frankly it's overpriced.  If you're bent on going this route there are many local ranchers that would gladly let you come get some of theirs.  Just be sure to make sure it has aged for a few years, when fresh it has too much ammonia and salt to be useful as organic matter.  It will burn your lawn and kill your plants.  But, like a fine wine, poo gets better with age.  Beware, you will be pulling a lot more weeds if you go this route, but maybe the fact that you can get a truckload for free out weighs that inconvenience.


Application of Organic Matter Matters:


1.  For a new bed, work 3-4 inches of organic matter 12 inches into your soil.  Do this with a shovel or hoe*.  Add an additional 1-2 inches as mulch and put 4 inches of bark on top of it for a more protective layer of mulch.  Mulch is anything that is used to cover your soil and retain moisture for your plants.  Mulch is Organic Matter's cute cousin, and my favorite is medium bark pieces--available anywhere you can get Soil Pep.


2.  For existing beds, add 2-3 inches of new organic matter every spring and fall.  Do this before planting and after you clean your beds out for winter.  Work into the soil the same as you do for a new bed, working gently around perennials and trees. 


3.  For lawns and trees, spread 1-2 inches in spring and fall.  For trees, make sure it is within their drip line (the area between the trunk and the furthest reaching branches).  Lawns love this especially in the fall, good organic matter discourages thatch and will help your lawn become more water wise.


4.  For containers, steep one shovel full of organic matter in 1 gallon of water overnight strain out solid pieces and throw in one of your regular beds.  The "tea" that is made is very beneficial to outdoor and indoor container plants and can be used as often as you water.




Grow Your Own Tip:  *Rototiller Godzilla
Here's the thing, rototillers are only helpful if you aren't mining Mormon Potatoes (huge rocks) like the ones found throughout Wyoming.  Once you've gotten enough of the rocks out, there's really no need to rototill.  You can over till your soil quite quickly with a rototiller, and you end up with a superfine mess that no longer has any water retaining value.  It can destroy the good organic matter and beneficals you have worked so hard to get too.  So, rototill if you must, but tread carefully and don't destroy everything in your path.  If you are thinking of buying a rototiller, stay tuned, there are better ways.  Raised beds and other methods greatly reduce the need for extensive tilling.


I'm always looking for questions and feedback, so please drop me a line.  I also love to hear your gardening stories and tall tales, so don't be afraid to send them in.

Make Like a Tree...

Today I'd like to talk to you about something that is generally overlooked when planting a yard/garden, and then thrown in as an afterthought latter. Trees!

Trees are a big investment in money and time, but without them your yard or garden will be sparse, windburnt, and lonesome. Just like fences, good trees make good neighbors. I hear a lot of people saying that they can't grow trees, the deer eat them, the wind blows them over, winter freezes the bark off of them, or they just die. I have tried and true advice to stop all of those things. And true to form, here is a list:

1. Pick the right tree for the right place. Trees need to be proportional to the area they are being planted in. You don't plant a Blue Spruce 10' from your house, or a Cotton Wood underneath power lines. At least not on purpose. When you are researching trees it is very important to know their growing habits. Are they large or small when mature? Do they create a lot of waste? How deep does their root system grow? (a very important question to ask if you are planting near your sewer/water lines or septic tank) How hardy are they?

2. Know your planting conditions. If you live in Bridger Valley, or anywhere else in Wyoming, your soil is alkaline (salty) with a pH Balance of around 7-9 depending on where you live. Parts of Urie, Lyman, and north of I-80 are incredibly alkaline usually between 8 & 9. Anywhere in The Valley your soil is from 1/2" to 4" inches thick, or in other words, there isn't any. From what I've seen there is a lot of clay soil in The Valley too, and a very high water table. Our climate is harsh to say the least, we are a solid Zone 3, and lean more towards a Zone 2. This means our growing season is very short, around 72 days. You may not have noticed, but sometimes the wind blows here. You need to pick strong hardy trees to thrive in this environment.

3. Buy good quality trees. I might take a lot of flack for this, but discount plants from Wal-Mart and Home Depot and other big box stores are generally a waste of money. There are many reputable nurseries out there that will spend time making sure that you purchase the right trees, and most of them have warranties on any trees you buy from them. Some of them will even come plant them for you. I know you Valley-ites are so tight you squeak when you walk, I've lived with you for 20 years now :) Buying from a reputable establishment will save you money and headaches in the long run, so don't be seduced by "a cheap deal." As far as the best way to buy trees I would rate it, 1st balled and burlaped, 2nd container, 3rd bare root. Balled and burlaped trees are usually more expensive, but they are usually healthier. I would not buy and plant a tree that is more than 5 years old. Interesting fun fact: If a tree is 3 years old when you buy it, it will generally take 3 more years to find out if it is going to take off in your yard.

My all time favorite place to shop for trees is the Green River Nursery. They are the bees knees when it comes to customer service, and have a huge selection of other plants and shrubs that thrive in Wyoming. A close second choice is the Park City Nursery, they have a similar climate to ours, and you can always go get lunch at The Red Rock Brewery afterwards. In a tie for third place is the nursery in Evanston out by the movie theater, and of course High Desert Nursery (Bill Jeske) who sells plants out in front of Benedicts. A plug for Bill, he knows what he is talking about and has lots of good advice. His plants are top quality, but due to his size, usually has a limited selection of trees. My Aunt Ruth (Shelton) has Grandma's Greenhouse over in Lyman, and while she has many other fun things she usually avoids selling trees.

4. Plant your trees correctly! Sorry honey, a backhoe is not the tool you plant a tree with. Even if it is a large tree. There is a wonderful video section here on how to do it. I would think the Arbor Day people know what they are talking about, and watching a video will make more sense to you than me trying to walk you through it. http://www.arborday.org/trees/video/howtoplant.cfm

Trees prefer to be planted in early spring or early fall. However, planting them in the middle of summer is not terrible, it's just not their favorite.

5. Not Tonight Deer! No, really there is a product out there called Not Tonight Deer! and it is a organic method of repelling deer. No weird chicken wire contraptions required. There are actually many variations of organic deer repellent out there, and they work rather well. Just remember to reapply after a serious rain or snow storm. Shooting deer with a pellet or airsoft gun is frowned upon by the Game Warden. I know of a certain rancher who uses a 410 Shotgun with rock salt to take care of teenagers and deer, but I wouldn't recommend it.

And now, Penny's Top 5 Tree Picks for the Bridger Valley, in no particular order:

Canadian Red Chokecherry: Ornamental, small to medium tree. Beautiful year round. Tolerates poor soil conditions and high water tables rather well. Doesn't create a lot of waste or fruit.

Crabapple Trees: Small to medium sized with white or pink blossoms. Show stoppers in spring and early summer. Grow Your Own Tip: There are fruitless varieties! If you don't care about the fruit May Day is my favorite variety, and they will attract deer and moose to your yard. Which in my book is a plus. Also tolerant of poor soil conditions.
Colorado Blue Spruce: A very large Conifer (by our standards). Especially beautiful all year. Can be planted with success in areas that are not too wet or with visible signs of alkali. Most of the healthy ones I've seen are in Mountain View, and Fort Bridger. I have two rather large ones in my front yard, and even though they are too big for the space they are in I love them. Hummingbirds love to build nests in them also.

Cottonless Cottonwoods: Yay! No cotton or sticky, nasty waste. Rather large trees, beautiful summer through fall. Excellent when planted as a wind break. Economical to buy. A good option for dry areas. These grow well throughout The Valley, and they grow quickly. The are a top choice for wind breaks.

Globe and Golden Willows: Lovely, large trees. Quick growing and excellent wind breaks. Excellent habitat for birds.

A few more thoughts on trees--

Quakies: they are beautiful...in the mountains. They are especially hard to grow "in town" and if you don't want suckers (small tree sprouts) popping up all over your lawn they aren't for you. The largest living organism in the world is a stand of Quaking Aspen in Colorado. They spread via their roots and grow in large colonies. It's just what they do. I know you love them, I do too. There are other tree choices that are related to them or mimic their white bark and fall colors and don't want to take over your yard. Pick one of those. Don't go dig up a quakie and try to bring it home. It won't like it and if it doesn't die you will probably grow to hate each other.

Digging Up Trees and Bringing Them Home: Don't do it. Even if your buddy says "Hey y'ant me to dig tha tree up with muh backoe and brin id over?" Your chances of success are slim, very slim. If the tree happens to be on public lands you could be looking at a misdemeanor and a fine. Mostly, don't be cheap or do things half way. I won't spread tales of your tree piracy, but seriously it's a bad idea and probably not worth the effort.

Tree Configuration: Odd numbers make more interesting and beautiful patterns. Plant in groups of 3, 5 or 7. These are magic numbers. Triangles, and diamond shapes are more pleasing to the eye than squares and rectangles. Also, soft wavy lines are more pleasing to the eye and much easier to maintain that a hard edge so, stagger your trees a little. Remember to plant shorties on the leeward side of larger trees to help form a windbreak.

To Everything, There is a Season...

This picture of the Uinta Mountains was taken on Fackrell Lane the end of May last year, it is a composite of over 150 pictures I took. It had to be this small to fit on here. In 'real life' it is 2' tall and 11' wide. To see it bigger, click on it.

Hello and welcome fellow Wyomingites and Gardeners!

Spring is here in the technical sense, but if you haven't gotten your yard started, not to worry. Our last frost date in Bridger Valley is not until June 7th, you still have plenty of time to gear up for gardening. I'm here to get you excited and headed down the path to yard and garden success.

April is the time to get your ducks in a row, so to speak. I like lists, so here is one to get you started:

1. What are my expectations for my yard? Are you hoping for an oasis from the wind and desert? Maybe you would like to grow some fresh produce for you and your family. Are you hoping for something in-between? Even if you can't get it all done in one season it's good to have a general idea of where you are going. This will eliminate the need for redoing or removing work you have already done.
2. After you've created on paper your dream yard, it's time to get realistic. Grapes, Hydrangeas, or Peach Trees ain't gonna happen. If you don't know what kinds of plants you can expect success with, The University of Wyoming Extension is an invaluable resource for all people who hope to grow things in Wyoming. I will include a link at the end of this list. If you need help with design, or have no idea what you want I highly recommend Sunset Magazine and all of their publications. A final word on the reality of gardening in our environment: You may not be able to grow things like they do in Utah or California, but there are many beautiful plants that do grow here and aside from Palmettos or large ornamental cactus, you can usually find suitable substitutes for plants that you wish you had in your yard.
3. Decide if you are going to be buying seedlings, or starting seeds yourself. If you are new to the gardening scene, seedlings are a better bet for you. It's good to set yourself up for success, and there is a better chance of it if you buy your plants already started. If you are going to start your own seeds, carefully read the directions on your seed packets to determine when you should get them started. I generally do not start anything until May 1st. Tomatoes can be grown here, but I do not know anyone who has had success starting them from seed.

http://www.uwyo.edu/ces/

http://www.sunset.com/

Here is another list of things to avoid like the plague as you make your plans:

1. Weed barrier is a joke, and harmful to your environment! I say your environment because it stratifies and compacts your soil, decreases the amount of oxygen that gets to plant roots causing rot and poor growth, and will eventually breakdown and become black plastic pieces littering the plains between here and Nebraska. Even the stuff that looks like window screen--NO ES BUENO! Just say NO! A four inch layer (mulch) of organic matter (bark, compost, Soil Pep) is sufficient to choke out most weeds. Weeds that do begin to grow in a properly mulched bed can be pulled out with ease. Really, don't do it. Black plastic is not your friend. Plastic of any kind is not your friend. If you already have it start phasing it out, there are better more sustainable ways.
2. Cow Poop is not a good mulch or fertilizer unless is has been allowed to decompose for several years. A good rule of thumb is that if it still smells strongly of manure it is too 'Hot' to put anywhere near your yard. The ammonia levels and salts in fresh manure will literally burn your plants and lawn. Once cow/horse poo has had a chance to break down a bit and has had several winters and rainy seasons to beat down the salts in it, it is suitable for use as organic matter. Be prepared to pull a lot of weeds.
3. Anyone who has a voodoo hoodoo recipe or method related to them from a friend of a friend or their great grandmother should be taken with a grain of salt. Anything that sounds fishy usually is. They are fun, and there is sometimes a little truth to them, but they do not replace sound gardening practices proven through science and extensive horticultural studies. Still though, they are fun. If you have a good one please share it, we'll find the nugget of truth hidden in it, or at the very least have a little giggle.

I had a very delightful great grandmother, Letha Eardley Maxfield, and I will include this bit of gardening advice from her this month. Sweet peas need to be put in the ground on May 15th if you want them blooming by the 24th of July. Unless of course it falls on a Sunday and then you need to wait until the next day. So far, this has always worked for me. Sweet Peas are pretty hardy, and if we are going to have a hard frost they can be covered with an old sheet to protect them.

Got questions comments or ideas for an article? Please let me know. I will be having periodic drawings and prize give-aways so make sure you become a follower and tell your friends. Have fun gardening!