Organic Matter. Burn those two words into your brain, because this is the solution to your gardening woes. Got clay soil? Add organic matter. Got sandy soil? Add organic matter. Got high soil pH (you do)? Add organic matter. Really the question is "Got organic matter?" It feeds plants, it loosens and aerates soil, it encourages the growth of beneficial micro-organisms, it provides a happy home for beneficial insects and worms, and once you begin gardening it is a renewable resource. Beauty, eh?
My Great Grandfather, Keith Maxfield, had one of the most beautiful yards in the valley for many years. His secret? Organic matter. Of course he was sitting on a gold mine, he was a dairy farmer. After the huge piles of manure aged enough to be effective, he would add them to his flower beds and gardens along with the occasional carp. He grew amazing flowers and vegetables (he also spent a lot of time weeding the, more on that latter).
Cindy Zampedri swears roses grow better in Ft. Bridger because they are planted on good Catholic Soil. That may be partly true, but the real nugget of truth is that Ft. Bridger is marshy and has lots of organic matter already in it's soil and all of the trees planted there over the years create a nice wind break. Either way, she's right.
So how can you get more organic matter into your soil?
Well, you can begin a compost regiment, once again the UW Extension has great information on this: ces.uwyo.edu/
I will be doing a piece this fall on Composting as well.
The quickest way to get going is to purchase organic matter. My list of favorites:
1. Soil Pep, sold in 30 lb. and 50 lb. bags. It usually has a purple header on it that says "Soil Pep" and is readily available and Benedict's, Murdoch's, and just about every garden center. It is affordable running from $2.50-$3.75 a bag depending on size (these are also last year's prices, everything is going up these days). Fort the price, you really can't beat it.
2. Black Gold Premium Fertilizer, sold at finer retailers in Utah. This stuff is a little more expensive, but worth it for vegetables and prize flower beds. There are many different varieties, and you can find one that is specially formulated for your purpose.
3. Nutri-Mulch (i.e. turkey poo), if you want unsurpassed growth in your vegetable garden this year, spring for Nutri-Mulch and thank me latter. This is a product of Utah, which means it wasn't trucked cross country to get to you; and in my book that is a plus. It can be purchased at garden centers on the Wasatch Front, and at IFA.
Just a quick note on why I like things produced and sold close to home: First of all, I don't buy into the whole end of the world, polar ice caps melting stuff. However, sustainability and prudence are just common sense, and the heritage our forefathers passed down to us. Buying things that are made locally or regionally is just good business practice, and saves huge amounts of effort and energy. A smaller carbon foot print if you will. I'm willing to pay more if I know where and who it came from. So, if you know of people locally that are producing good gardening products, Please Share!
Grow Your Own Tip: The Straight Poop
Cow s---, often packaged and sold as "Steer Manure" is maybe not the biggest bang for your buck. It's not as balanced as regular compost, and frankly it's overpriced. If you're bent on going this route there are many local ranchers that would gladly let you come get some of theirs. Just be sure to make sure it has aged for a few years, when fresh it has too much ammonia and salt to be useful as organic matter. It will burn your lawn and kill your plants. But, like a fine wine, poo gets better with age. Beware, you will be pulling a lot more weeds if you go this route, but maybe the fact that you can get a truckload for free out weighs that inconvenience.
Application of Organic Matter Matters:
1. For a new bed, work 3-4 inches of organic matter 12 inches into your soil. Do this with a shovel or hoe*. Add an additional 1-2 inches as mulch and put 4 inches of bark on top of it for a more protective layer of mulch. Mulch is anything that is used to cover your soil and retain moisture for your plants. Mulch is Organic Matter's cute cousin, and my favorite is medium bark pieces--available anywhere you can get Soil Pep.
2. For existing beds, add 2-3 inches of new organic matter every spring and fall. Do this before planting and after you clean your beds out for winter. Work into the soil the same as you do for a new bed, working gently around perennials and trees.
3. For lawns and trees, spread 1-2 inches in spring and fall. For trees, make sure it is within their drip line (the area between the trunk and the furthest reaching branches). Lawns love this especially in the fall, good organic matter discourages thatch and will help your lawn become more water wise.
4. For containers, steep one shovel full of organic matter in 1 gallon of water overnight strain out solid pieces and throw in one of your regular beds. The "tea" that is made is very beneficial to outdoor and indoor container plants and can be used as often as you water.
Grow Your Own Tip: *Rototiller Godzilla
Here's the thing, rototillers are only helpful if you aren't mining Mormon Potatoes (huge rocks) like the ones found throughout Wyoming. Once you've gotten enough of the rocks out, there's really no need to rototill. You can over till your soil quite quickly with a rototiller, and you end up with a superfine mess that no longer has any water retaining value. It can destroy the good organic matter and beneficals you have worked so hard to get too. So, rototill if you must, but tread carefully and don't destroy everything in your path. If you are thinking of buying a rototiller, stay tuned, there are better ways. Raised beds and other methods greatly reduce the need for extensive tilling.
I'm always looking for questions and feedback, so please drop me a line. I also love to hear your gardening stories and tall tales, so don't be afraid to send them in.
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